Everyone’s Favorite New Fashion House : Schiaparelli

Schiaparelli is a historic Parisian fashion house renowned for its avant-garde, surrealist approach to couture.

Origins (1920s–1930s)

The house was founded in 1927 by Elsa Schiaparelli (1890–1973), an Italian designer who established herself in Paris during the interwar years. Schiaparelli quickly distinguished her work by fusing fashion with modern art, collaborating closely with leading Surrealists such as Salvador Dalí, Jean Cocteau, and Man Ray.

Key innovations from this period include:

The iconic “trompe-l’œil” sweater (1927)
The bold use of zippers as visible design elements
The introduction of “Shocking Pink”, a vivid magenta that became her signature
Conceptual garments like the Lobster Dress(1937) (with Dalí) and the Skeleton Dress(1938)

By the late 1930s, Schiaparelli was a dominant force in haute couture and Coco Chanel’s principal rival, known for intellectual wit and provocation rather than understatement.

War and Decline (1940s–1950s)

World War II disrupted Paris couture, and Schiaparelli spent much of the early 1940s in the United States. Although she returned to Paris post-war, fashion tastes shifted toward the “New Look” popularized by Christian Dior—emphasizing softness and traditional femininity. Unable to regain her former influence, Elsa Schiaparelli closed the house in 1954 and withdrew from fashion.

Dormancy and Revival (1954–2010s)

For decades, Schiaparelli existed largely as a legendary archive, studied for its artistic daring but inactive as a couture house. Interest revived in the early 21st century as fashion increasingly embraced conceptual and art-driven design.

Modern Era (2012–present)

The brand was officially revived in 2012 and reestablished as a couture house in Paris. After several creative transitions, Daniel Roseberry was appointed Artistic Director in 2019.Daniel Roseberry’s work at Schiaparelli is grounded in surrealism, craftsmanship, and narrative theatricality. He consistently references Elsa Schiaparelli’s legacy such as trompe-l’œil, symbolic motifs, and collage like juxtapositions while pushing couture into a contemporary, often emotionally expressive realm.

Under Roseberry:

The house returned to haute couture prominence
Surrealism was reinterpreted through sculptural silhouettes, anatomical motifs, and gilded embellishments
Schiaparelli became a red-carpet and museum staple, worn by global celebrities and praised for restoring couture as wearable art

Autumn/Winter 2019 — First Couture (Debut)

Spring/Summer 2024 — “Schiaparalien”

Spring/Summer 2025 Couture

Focused on blending fantasy and elegance, this season nodded to historical couture while pushing silhouettes and materials into sculptural territory.

Characteristics:

Exaggerated anatomical forms like peaked hips and dramatic waists.
Metallics and pearls enhanced a sense of motion and otherworldliness.

Ready-to-Wear Spring/Summer 2026

Though not couture, the RTW collection reinforced Roseberry’s vision of structural clarity and artistic wit.

Highlights:

Tailleur rigueur—sharp tailoring with strict color palettes like black, bone white, crimson.
Trompe-l’œil jacquard knitwear blooming like living sketches on the body.